Friday, December 26

Loss of a good friend

Found out today one of my Gcru babies, one of the originals, passed away. I just got a phone call this afternoon as I was at a Christmas lunch with friends. Im so completely in shock and saddened by it all. I dont know what else to say but that he will be missed and hope he moves on to a better realm. May he pass peacefully and quietly through these next steps.

Miss you Talik...

Monday, December 22

Jam Karet Karim Style

Jam karet (rubber time). This is how we do in Bali. Its very very rare to find anyone who will remotely be on time on this island and no one else exemplifies this with more spectacular flare than my oldest and dearest pal.

Set the scene: Friday evening, sms discussion with Karim to try and plan a trip up to Batur in the morning. After much toing and froing, decide to meet at mine at 6:15 am so we can dash up, swim and come back in time for my 10 am appointment in Ubud.

Saturday -
6:00 - wake up to annoying alarm but somehow struggle to get ready on time
6:35 - no Karim. Call. Listen to his mumbling (obviously I'd woken him) to finally discern that there's no way in hell he'll be out of bed in the next couple of hours. Decide to meet at 11 after my meeting instead.
10:55 - phone chirps, call from Karim - he's just woken up. Will call me back in 45 minutes when he should be ready to take off.
11:45 - arrive at Karims, find him casually strumming guitar in one of the living rooms. Invites me to say hi to his dad, long chats follow.
12:35 - leave Karims to get nasi campur Kedewatan (essential... is the most delicious rice dish around and only costs $1 for massive parcel of vegs/meats etc) to take up to the lake
1:00 - head back into town as Karim remembers he has to pick up some mail for Jennifer (fabulously mad actress who lives by the lake) at a friends house
1:15 - stop by at my house to pick up my bikini (oopsies on my part for this one)
1:30 - Karim needs to change money, stop on road in Ubud main road
1:45 - Karim needs papayas? Stop 500m down to road to buy a couple
2:25 - Karim wants to buy a sign?? Stops on road to check out a small shop and decides on a couple of humorous pieces. Bargains like a pro, gets two for $4.
3:15 - arrive in Batur. Initial ETA - 7:15 am. Actual ETA 3:15 pm. Not bad for Karim really.


Saturday, December 20

Losing it

Almost a week now and I’m starting to get a bit frustrated with this. I’ve visited god knows how many hotels/motels/losmens/homestays and have so far found 1 place that I would ever recommend. More on that one to come…

Up side, free stays in hotels, massage by Bali’s best therapists and endless free meals. Actually have gained too much weight, exercise just seems to be too much work right now. I worked out in a gym for the first time in weeks yesterday, can hardly walk this morning...

But this distinct lack of facilities for my target market is annoying. Most of what I’ve seen is more hostel than boutique, grubby little digs with scary bathrooms and strange smells. You would think the island would have cottoned on to the flashpacker trend by now but I guess there is such a huge amount of effort and energy aimed at villas, the “real” travellers are kinda getting forgotten.

Don’t get me started on the Villas! Mushrooming wildly around the island, most are eyesores badly built and of questionable design. Really, who would pay $400 to stay in a box with a plunge pool when you have the choice of spoiling yourself in a 5 star hotel for less around half the price? I’m so tempted to open my own place just to show em how it’s done! Hahaha, welcome to Chez Soma.

Thursday, December 18

Wednesday, December 17

Milano Day Spa

After a long long wait, I’ve finally made it to a day spa! Milano’s down on Jl Monkey Forest, is a favourite with the local expat ladies. Offering everything from manicures to massages, the spa is good value and clean. Today I was having the classic combo – manicure, pedicure and creambath (nourishing cream is worked slowly into the hair, followed by a blissful scalp, shoulder and arm massage). I was attended by three therapists and spent 2 hours being pampered Bali style. All for less than $30! Heaven.

Sunday, December 14

Potholes, motorbikes and Doggies oh my!

There are three things you need when you attempt to drive in Bali – patience, a sense of humour and most importantly steel cohones. Its pretty much taking your own life in your own hands and today’s adventure was the perfect example of the perils faced when you get on the roads here. For some reason no matter how many times I’ve been on this particular route down to the beach from Ubud, I can not manage to get there without getting completely and utterly lost. I found myself motoring along with fingers crossed that I wouldn’t end up on the other side of the island by the end of it. Dodging suicidal motorbike swarms, dogs sauntering casually across the bitumen (that’s when they can even be bothered moving), crater like potholes and especially for today, ceremonies galore.

Unbeknownst to me, today was a really important date on the Balinese religious calendar and everywhere along the roads the temples were spilling over with villagers dressed in their best kebayas (traditional Balinese formal wear, a lacy long sleeved top for the ladies and starched white jackets for the men, both paired with sarongs). At one point a whole congregation were seated in the middle of a major intersection, attending prayers led by a priest. I had to drive excruciatingly slow, weaving through the kneeling crowds all with closed palms up in prayer to …the road gods?... as the religious police directed the traffic around the assembly.

By this time I had discovered that the car came with a charming odour of throw up which curiously only became stronger as I opened the windows, and conversely almost disappeared when I turned the AC on. Gagging, struggling with sticky gears and faulty window controls, I bumped and weaved along the road when for some reason I’d decided to stop following instinct and follow the road signs (always of dubious accuracy) to Kuta. I ended up down a tiny road, which was blocked abruptly by another temple ceremony. So, quick u-turn later I was back on the original path vowing never to follow another sign in Bali. I did eventually make it to the coast, only to be stuck in a traffic jam (in Bali?!!) on the bypass. At one particularly long red light, I discovered a little stowaway – a gecko had decided enough was enough and crawled up the windscreen to see what the hold up was. There really is definitely nothing like driving in Bali.

The Princess is home

Well here we are again. I’ve come home to Bali after yet another life changing series of events. Its seems every time things start to go pear shaped, I run back to my island home to regroup before I can go out and attack life again. I was to be picked up at the airport by dad’s new driver, who I had never met. So I was vaguely curious when I got off the plane as how it was all going to work out. Once I’d drifted out the arrival doors I was met with the usual throng of pushy punters and hotel drivers all eyeing me expectantly. I was ever so grateful that he had thought to bring a sign with him… Miss H has arrived!

My dads house – the only permanent/unchanging address I’ve had since aged 5 - has unfortunately been sold and this may be my last chance to come home to this wonderful haven. I’ve made it my mission to soak up as much of the experience as possible, knowing any future visits home will just not be the same.

Home is made up of a series of buildings - what we call a compound really. At our front gate a large Buddha statue sits in a protective cove, performing the double task of welcoming visitors as well as concealing the sanctuary within. As you walk around the statue, the first series of buildings are revealed. My father’s quarters to the left, the laundry and villa office to the right and the large open living room directly ahead. A short path curves around a small bamboo and pebble garden and takes you to the main entrance of the bale (Balinese open living space). A raised platform topped with thin mattresses and scatter cushions runs along the only half wall of the building, leading the eye up to the slightly elevated dining area and kitchen up to the left. The raised lounge is the very best spot in the compound, what Dad likes to call his “power spot”. You can sit there all day, gaze at the sprawling gardens, listen to the bubbling waters of the lotus ponds and contemplate your belly button. As long as you slap on enough mozzie repellent!


The garden also holds the lap pool and guest rooms - which, when not occupied by the princess are rented out. I love my rooms, ridiculously soft and comfy king size bed complete with romantic hanging mozzie nets, bathroom suite and a little front patio. I’m always so enthusiastic about morning laps, yoga in the sun etc when I first arrive. That is until I fall completely into a lazy lifestyle and am quickly over it, preferring to veg out in the living room and absorbing all the green. I love the familiar sounds, doves cooing, water bubbling, chickens crowing and the occasional temple drums or gamelan (Balinese orchestra) carried from the village across the ravine at the back of our property. Ahh, bliss… time to let my mind unravel and let it all in.